About one kilometre up the coastal road from Paihia are the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, the heart of New Zealands historical beginnings. The estate comprises of 506 hectares and includes the site where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840.

This treaty was drawn up between the British Government and the Maori chiefs. On 6th February 1840, 43 chiefs signed with a copy of the treaty then being carried around the country for others to sign. By September 1840 over 500 chiefs had signed it, and British sovereignty was proclaimed over the whole country on 21st May 1840. The agreement is as relevant today as it was then, for it guarantees the rights of both Maori and non Maori citizens in Aotearoa New Zealand.

As you arrive at the Visitors Centre, you are offered a selection of different tours and activities that you can take part in during your visit. We opted for the ´General Admission´, costing 20 NZ dollars per person. This allowed you access to the site, as well as a pass to ´The Treaty House´which was the original British residency of James Busby, the government appointed British Resident who´s job it was to maintain law and order, without an army or guns.

You enter the reserve on elevated wooden pathways through the forest, where you can hear numerous different bird songs, almost like something out of a David Attenborough documentary.

Our first stop was at the shelter of the Maori Waka (canoe). Situated at Hobson´s Beach, the Waka house houses the 35 metre long Ngatokimatawhaorua canoe. The canoe requires a minimum of 76 paddlers to handle it safely on the water. It was launched as part of the Centenary celebrations in 1940. It is made from three massive kauri trees that were felled in the Puketi Forest. It is an extremely impressive sight, a huge canoe coloured in red and black with ornate carvings along its sides and at its end. On display were several other smaller canoes, albeit no less impressive.

From Hobson´s Beach, you can slowly walk up the gentle slope towards the Treaty House, who´s gardens are full of abundant flowers and plants. Inside you can read about the treaty signing and look around the residency.

Next it was over to the Te Whare Runanga meeting house which was opened during the Centenary celebrations in 1940. Standing alongside the Treaty House, it symbolizes Maori involvement in the signing of the treaty. It is a unique building as it was planned to be shared by all Maori tribes. The carvings inside are impressive to say the least, depicting ancestors from many tribes. As it is a sacred building to the Maori people, you do have to remove your shoes before entering.

The views outside from the summit of this hill are amazing, looking across at the Bay of Islands with its calm waters, tree covered islands and sailing boats.

We had decided on an additional activity from the program which was an energetic cultural performance show, combining traditional and contemporary story with songs and music from the northern tribes. We waited in the visitor centre for the start of the show, admiring the handcrafted jade jewelry and wooden carvings available for you to buy. By the time the show was due to start, it appeared that it was only Dani and I signed up for this particular performance, so we had our own free show in the small auditorium

It was great! We were greeted first in the Maori language before having it translated into English. The group performed traditional songs and showed the use of traditional instruments. I am quite glad there were only the two of us in the crowd as it involved ´audience participation´and I had to get up and try to perform with the two Maori girls using soft, leather balls on strings which are swung around in front of you in circles in time to the singing (to prove co-ordination), of which I discovered then, I had none! Dani was then called up to join the two guys in performing some traditional moves from the Maori ´Haka´, scary faced and tongues out! There is a place for him in the All Blacks rugby Haka now

It was a lovely day out learning about the history of the Maori people and learning a small part about their culture. They are extremely passionate about both, and for me, it is so understandable to see why.